You do not have Shockwave Flash installed. Please install the plugin.

  Willow Grove Pet Gazette

Thank you for visiting Willow Grove's Pet Gazette newsletter!  Here you will find interesting facts, tips for your pet family, and exciting news about Willow Grove Animal Clinic.  Don't forget to mention this wonderful site, and our clinic, to your friends and family!  

 

May 2010
                                          Parvo and Distemper

Summer time has not arrived and so far we’ve seen one case of distemper and 3 cases of parvo.  Due to these viruses being so highly contagious, we have decided to help educate our community on what these viruses are and how to better recognize them.  We hope this will result in early detection and, hopefully, a positive outcome of your pet’s health. 

 

Parvovirus

What is canine parvovirus?

            Canine parvovirus is a highly contagious, often fatal viral disease of dogs.  It is characterized by vomiting, severe diarrhea, depression and accompanied by high fever and loss of appetite.

 

How does parvo get transferred from one to another?

The parvovirus spreads through the feces of infected dogs. Although it isn’t an airborne disease as some may suggest, it can spread just as easily making caution around puppies extremely important. Outdoor dogs have a larger vulnerability as we can’t control the outside environment – small animals can track Parvo across your yard just as easily as a bird can fly in and step on your puppy’s water bowl. In each case, if these animals have come into contact with Parvo beforehand, it is likely your puppy will contract the virus.

 

How do I know my dog has parvo?

There are many signs that will let you know your puppy just isn’t doing well. 

·        Lack of appetite

·        Not very active, if at all

·        Vomiting

·        Diarrhea (liquid, blood, mucous)

·        Weak eyes

·        Not drinking normal amount of water

·        Lethargic/Depressed

Unfortunately, if you were to list all of these symptoms to a veterinarian, there are an endless number of reasons and/or viruses for all of these signs.  Bringing your puppy in as soon as any of these symptoms occur and allowing an examination to be performed will help the veterinarian be able to diagnose what is truly happening.  And remember, just because your puppy is showing one or even all of these symptoms, does not mean it is definitely parvo.

 

How do we treat parvo?

Unfortunately, there isn’t a medication that will treat the virus and leave your puppy feeling much better.  Parvo attacks the digestive system, intestines, which is where the critical nutrients are absorbed.  Parvo is a virus that is treated symptomatically; meaning we help to treat what is going on (vomiting, diarrhea, etc.) but not the virus itself, since there is no real cure for parvo.  Treating symptoms may include IV fluids, medications for nausea, stabilizing body temperature, and even rest. 

 

Who is at risk?

Every puppy under the age of 6 months is more susceptible to the virus.  Rottweilers, Doberman Pinchers, Pit Bulls, German Shepherds, and other black and tan breeds are even more susceptible to the parvovirus.  Some older dogs that have never been vaccinated against the virus can be at risk as well.

 

How do I prevent parvo?

The best method to prevent parvo is to provide early and regular vaccination.  Contact your veterinarian for their vaccine protocol on protecting against parvovirus and other contagious viruses.  It is very important for the puppy to be seen and examined by a veterinarian before a vaccine is given. 

 

Distemper

What is distemper?

            Canine distemper is a contagious, incurable, often fatal, multisystemic viral disease that affects the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and/or the central nervous systems.

 

How is distemper transferred?

            Canine distemper is transferred through all bodily excretions, through direct contact or respiratory droplets-making it harder to contain. 

 

How do I know my dog has distemper?

            Distemper, along with any other illness, has many symptoms.  Most of which could also be diagnosed as something completely different.  This makes it very important to visit your veterinarian for an examination at the first sign of any of these following symptoms.

Respiratory signs:

·        Drainage from eyes and/or nose

·        Coughing

·        Difficulty breathing

·        Pneumonia

      Gastrointestinal signs:

·        Loss of appetite

·        Vomiting

·        Diarrhea

      Neurological signs:

·        Seizures

·        Weakness or paralysis

·        Unstable, or loss of balance

·        Muscle twitching

·        Neck pain

·        Changes in behavior

 

Unfortunately, there is an endless list of reasons for any of these symptoms, which is why it is so important to have your dog examined by a veterinarian at the onset of any of these signs to be able to correctly diagnose what is happening with your dog.

 

How do we treat distemper?

            There is no real cure for distemper so we treat by treating the symptoms.  IV fluids, medications for nausea, nutritional support, antibiotics, and possibly many other things may be needed to help treat the symptoms of a dog that has contracted the distemper virus.

 

Who is at risk?

            Dogs of all ages who have not been vaccinated are at risk, although infection is most common in puppies 16 weeks and younger. 

 

How do I prevent distemper?

            The best method of preventing canine distemper is to provide early and regular vaccination.  Veterinary hospitals provide a combination vaccine which includes distemper and parvo virus, plus protection against other viruses.  It is extremely important to have an examination done by a veterinarian before this vaccine is given.   

 

 

            Feel free to contact your veterinarian with any further questions about either of these viruses.  The common goal of all veterinary practices is for the greater good of the health of your pets.  One way of approaching this goal is to better educate all pet owners. 

March 2010

Our Senior Family

It's inevitable that we will outlive our pets, but there are ways to help detect and prevent certain age-related diseases and conditions.

Common Medical Conditions in Senior Pets:

Health Category 

Examples of Common Senior Diseases 

Signs   

 If Left Untreated

 Dental 

periodontal disease, gingivitis, cancer 

bad breath, redness in gums, swollen gums, mass 

heart disease, tooth loss, kidney and liver disorder, systemic infection, cancer progression 

 Liver

inflammatory, degenerative and cancerous liver disease 

 decreased appetite, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, increased thirst/urination

 hypoalbuminemia, lipid metabolism disturbance, anemia, bleeding disorders, liver failure

 Kidney

 kidney failure, kidney stones, kidney infection, kidney insufficiency

 increased thirst/urination, decreased appetite, weight loss, vomiting, diarrhea, back pain

 progression to kidney failure, heart disease, electrolyte upsets, fluid balance disturbance, death

 Heart and Lungs

 cardiac disease, pneumonia, bronchitis, emphysema

 decreased stamina, coughing, difficulty breathing, weight loss, pot belly

 progression to renal and liver disease, poor vascular profusion, eventual death

 Joints

 arthritis, hip dysplasia, back disease

 lameness, reluctance to walk or exercise, decreaseed appetite, discomfort/pain

 progressive disease, reduced mobility, neurologic deficits

 Endocrine System

 diabetes mellitus, hyperthyroidism, hypothyroidism, hypoadrenocorticism, hyperadnrenocorticism

 noticeable weight change, increased appetite without weight gain, vomiting, increased water consumption, frequent urination, change in energy level

 heart failure, kidney failure, secondary metabolic disease

 Cancer

 cancers of the skin, spleen, liver, lymphoid tissue, etc.

 bleeding, lumps, irritated skin, identified mass, swollen lymph nodes, vomiting, diarrhea

 can progress to organ failure or death

 Ocular

 cataracts, dry eye, glaucoma

 gray, bluish hue at the center of the eye; rubbing; pressing head against objects; swelling; redness; irritation; tearing

 difficulty seeing, corneal ulceration, can progress to blindness, loss of eye

 Gastrointestinal System

 inflammatory bowel disease, pancreatitis, cancer, colitis

 vomiting, diarrhea, weight loss, fluid gain

 further weight loss, disease will progress to potential death

Through bloodwork done in the clinic, bloodwork sent to an outside laboratory, blood pressure test, x-rays, urinalysis, ultrasound, most of these diseases can be diagnosed and, if proactive, can be caught in an early stage.

Around the age of 6 years old we recommend a series of tests to get a baseline of your pet's health.  Some of these tests may be neccessary at a younger age if your pet is not feeling well. 

You know your pet better than anyone else and can alert us to any changes in your pet before they become serious.  Knowing your pet and the signs related to serious diseases could save or prolong your pet's life.

Watch for these signs, keep track, and report them to us immediately before they become serious:

  • Just not acting like himself/herself
  • Interacting less often with family
  • Responding less often or less enthusiastically
  • Showing changes in behavior/activity level
  • Having difficulty climbing stair
  • Having difficulty jumping
  • Exhibiting increased stiffness or limping
  • Drinking more often
  • Urinating more often
  • Changing eating patterns
  • Noticeable gaining or losing weight
  • Losing housetraining habits
  • Changing sleeping patterns
  • Becoming confused or disoriented
  • Changing hair coat, skin, or new lumps or bumps
  • Scratching more often
  • Exhibiting bad breath/red or swollen gums
  • Showing tremors or shaking

 

February 2010

It’s a VICIOUS cycle…BREAK IT!

The Flea Life Cycle

Egg:                Deposited on the host but readily fall into the environment (i.e. home or yard).  Flea eggs can be deposited in the yard by local wildlife such as rabbits, squirrels, mice, and deer.

Larvae:           This worm-like phase will live off flea feces and other organic debris.  Larvae seek cool, dark, moist areas to develop.  Areas such as carpeting, cracks and crevices in wood or parquet floor, furniture, animal bedding, soil, and vegetation are all ideal.

Pupae:             The flea finishes development in a hard cocoon where it is protected from environmental hazards such as heat, cold, dry conditions and even some chemical treatments.  Development takes 7-14 days.  

Pre-emerged Adult:              The fully developed adult will remain in its protective cocoon until it senses a potential host.  Vibration, increases temperature, and carbon dioxide emitted from the host are all triggers for the flea to emerge.  In the absence of these stimuli a flea can remain dormant in this phase for up to 30 weeks.

The Adult Flea:                Emerges from the pupa when the appropriate stimuli are detected.  Once they emerge from the pupae they must feed immediately.  Egg production begins within 24 hours of the first meal and females can produce up to 50 eggs per day!  It is estimated that of all the flea life-cycle stages, the adult only makes up 5% of the total flea population in the environment.  Therefore, control of the immature flea is vital to total flea control.

Here are just a few, common questions and answers to aid in flea control knowledge.

Where do fleas come from?

-Just because your animal has fleas does not mean you live in a dirty house or you don’t take care of your pets.  Most wildlife (rabbits, squirrels, mice, and deer) carry around fleas without having much concern for them.

Do I need to apply topical flea control every month, even in the winter?

-Yes.  Topical flea control is important once a month, every month, year-round.  For example, Willow Grove has already examined a number of pets with flea infestations, not just a few.  This was seen just after the coldest days we’ve had.  Yes, it is cold outside and yes, snow and ice usually kills off most populations of fleas, but the pupae stage can withstand most of the cold which means there are still fleas out there waiting to fully develop and reproduce.  In our home, we keep it nice and warm during the cold weather which aids flea development and as we remember they can remain dormant in cracks and crevices of wood.  This is why every month it is very important for topical flea control.

Why does my Veterinarian say my pet(s) has fleas, but I can’t see them?

-Fleas are small but not microscopic. Flea sizes range from 1/12 to 1/6 of an inch long.  Their bodies are very narrow and very dark in color, almost black. 

-Favorite flea hideouts are usually around the base of the tail (where the tail meets the rear), on the backs of their hind legs, on their belly (armpit areas as well), and behind their ears.  If no fleas spotted, run your hand through their fur in the opposite direction of hair growth.  You may see tiny dark specks of what appears to be dirt; this is actually flea poop!

-Not physically seeing a flea definitely does NOT mean they’re not there.  Pets groom themselves constantly and are most likely consuming some fleas, if not all of them.  One way to tell if they’ve been grooming the fleas off is to check their stool.  Sometimes, not always, they can produce tapeworms which they get intestinally from consuming fleas.  If no signs of tapeworms, check for hair loss around rear area from chewing or constant licking-this would be a sure sign of fleas.

My pet is scratching like crazy and there are no signs of fleas, but my Veterinarian says they most likely have a flea allergy.  How could this be so?

-Flea saliva contains more than 15 different allergens that could provoke an allergic reaction in your pet.  With this fact, just ONE flea bite could trigger a miserable reaction to the saliva.  The reaction would include very itchy, red, bumpy skin, or even in severe cases, thickened skin due to inflammation from chewing or scratching.  Not always are these cases due to fleas, so it’s always a good idea to have your veterinarian examine your pet before treating at home.

Ok, so I’ve seen a few fleas on my pet…What do I do now?

-With a small population on your pet, such as this, it would be a good idea to bathe him/her in a flea specific oatmeal shampoo or take them to be bathed at a Veterinarian’s office; they are equipped with bath specific hoses, shampoos, dryers and even medications if it turns out your pet needs them. 

-The next move would be to begin and continue a topical flea control once a month that will be applied directly to the skin.  It may take a few months for you to see a difference because a female flea lays eggs (approx. 50) everyday and eggs hatch every 3 weeks. 

With a vicious cycle as this, it is a good idea to stay on topical control every month year-round.  It sure seems easier to prevent and control than deal with infestation of fleas.  (Ask your veterinarian which flea control product would be best for your animal)

There are SO many fleas that I’m finding bites on me…What now?

-Fleas generally do not like feeding on humans, so if you’re seeing flea bites on you it is definitely time to call in the army.  Fleas are difficult to rid of simply due to the reproduction rates that one female can produce up to 50 eggs per day.  Flea eggs can remain dormant for up to 30 weeks.  Flea larvae develop hidden in wood or parquet floors, furniture, animal bedding, soil and vegetation.

-First, a bath is a must; it usually drowns quite a few fleas, removes flea dirt, and if bathed in an oatmeal based shampoo decreases the level of itchy skin.  It is the best idea to take your pet to your veterinarian to have this bath done; this will aid in the second step.

-Second, while your pet is at your veterinarian having a day spa, it’s time to get down and dirty at home.  Your home must be treated with an adulticide and insect growth regulator (IGR) combination such as Knockout E.S. Area Treatment.  Before treating your home vacuum all furniture and carpeted areas.  Remember to lift cushions in order for the Treatment to have access to all areas.  Sweep and mop all tile, hardwood, or parquet surfaces.  These steps will physically remove a portion of the immature flea population.  The vibrations and increased activity in the area will also stimulate the pre-emerged fleas to leave their protective cocoon making them vulnerable to treatments.  In addition, be sure to wash all beddings that your pet regularly lays on.  This must be repeated every 3 weeks until you are seeing an improvement in flea population. (Eggs hatch every 3 weeks)

-Third, treating the yard is a must but is commonly forgotten.  It doesn’t seem as though such a tiny animal as the flea could cause so much trouble.  Don’t be fooled!  In addition to adult fleas jumping onto your pet’s fur, flea eggs can be tracked into your home on your clothes and footwear (remember that wildlife can carry the eggs until they fall off in your yard).  Thus it is important to also treat the yard with an environmentally safe treatment.  Virbac Yard Spray Concentrate attaches to your hose and allows you to easily treat the outside areas around your home.  Keeping grass trimmed to a reasonable height and shrubbery trimmed will aid in yard treatment and control.  This must be done every 3 weeks until you are seeing an improvement in flea population. (Eggs hatch every 3 weeks)

-Last, but not least, start and continue a once a month topical flea control that is applied directly to the skin.  It will take a few doses, meaning a few months, for you to see a real improvement of flea population so don’t give up too soon.  With the combination of baths, home treatment, yard treatment, and topical treatment, we’ll have your flea problem under control.  In order to prevent and control future infestations, yard, pet and home treatments once a month is the way to go.  We can’t communicate with our wildlife friends to keep fleas away, so this is not a guarantee to rid of fleas, but it sure beats not doing anything.  Contact your veterinarian for the best option of topical flea control for your pet.

 

September-October 2009

Zoonotic Diseases:  Diseases You and Your Pet Can Share
     
    
It's hard to imagine that our loving, furry friends could transmit anything to us.  Unfortunately, Zoonotic Diseases are those that can potentially affect both people and their animals. Three ways of contracting a zoonotic disease is by contact, ingestion and through bite.

Contact:
Ringworm---a fungal infection involving hair and skin
In animals, usually there are areas of hair loss, which may or may not be itchy.  In humans, itchy patches usually show up as a reddish ring, sometimes slightly flaky.  Children tend to be more affected than adults, but this does not exclude adults.  Animals and humans can contract this disease through direct contact with the pet that is carrying the ringworm as well as exposure to inanimate objects (hair on couch, or bed, etc). Early detection and treatment (on pets and yourself) as well as cleaning of the environment will decrease amount of spread of the fungus.
Almost 50% of people exposed to ringworm will get it.

Sarcoptic Mange---Scabies---caused by microscopic mites that live directly under the skin
In animals, severe itching and hair loss, not associated with seasonal allergies, occurs.  Skin scrapings and microscopic examination may or may not show mites.  In humans, itching and red rash, often in areas normally covered by clothing, occurs.  Direct contact is usually needed for transmission, although these mites have the capability to live in the environment off of the pet for 1 day.  Skin scraping test and treatment of the pet at the first signs of itching and/or hair loss will help in prevention of any further infection.

Hookworm---intestinal parasite most commonly contracted from contaminated soil
In animals, hookworms can cause diarrhea and anemia.  Humans are commonly infected by walking barefoot in contaminated soil.  The hookworm larvae then causes red rashes and itchy skin.  Hookworms can also cause anemia in humans depending on the population.  Anemia (low red blood cell count) can cause intellectual and physical developmental delays in children and impairment of cardiovascular performance in adults.

Ingestion:
Roundworm---most common zoonotic parasite. (intestinal parasite most commonly passed from the mother in animals)
Puppies and kittens are more commonly infected than adult animals, but this does not exclude them.  Infection is usually not apparent, but the animal may have an enlarged belly, may even vomit a worm, or pass one or more in the stool. Diarrhea is possible, but not neccessarily a symptom.  As gross as it sounds, this worm looks much like that of a cooked spaghetti noodle.
Roundworm eggs can survive in the soil for years--20% of the US park soils contains eggs.  In humans, roundworms can be seen as tracks underneath the skin, often the face, and mostly affects children. 
Personal Hygiene and hand washing, routine worming for your pet, and regular fecal checks can help reduce the number of roundworm infections.

Giardiasis---caused by Giardia---environment: standing water, toilet water, etc.
In animals, this can cause bloody diarrhea.  This is the most common human parasitic infection in the US with the highest incidence in day car centers.  In humans, this can cause bloody diarrhea and abdominal pain.  Humans and animals can both contract this disease by ingesting infected water.  Dogs can lick their paws that may have contaminated dirt or water on them.  The only way to really prevent this from happening is to avoid untreated stream water, long standing water, or toilet water.

Bite:
Rabies---infectious disease transmitted through bite (saliva)
Rabies incubation period in dogs is about 2 weeks to 6 months.  Some signs of rabies positive are:  Changes in behavoir (such as shyness in a normally friendly pet, loss or fear of man by a wild animal, increased alertness, or aggression), dilated or unequal pupils (indicating nervous system involvement), weakness or paralysis of part of the body.  Once symptoms start, death is usually in 2-10 days.
Rabies incubation peroid in humans is anywhere from 9 days to 5 years.  Some signs of rabies positive in humans are:  pain at the bite wound site, anxiety, hyperactivity, salivation, muscle spasms in the throat, ascending paralysis, convulsions and coma.  Death always occurs 2-8 days after first signs of rabies, and treatment is unsuccessful.
Rabies is transmitted through a bite wound of an infected animal.  The actual virus lives in the saliva of the infected.
Best way for prevention is to vaccinate puppies and kittens at the earliest age possible, 1 year after that date, and 3 years from then on out for the rest of their lives.  If bitten by an animal of unknown vaccination history, a post exposure injection should be given.
Rabies is always fatal once symptoms appear.

Some ways to prevent zoonotic infection:

  • Always wash hands thoroughly after cleaning the litter box or yard where the pet has eliminated.
  • Make sure children also wash hands after playing outside in the area the pet uses for elimination.
  • After a pet has had worming medication, be especially vigilant to clean up after elimination to avoid re-infestation.
  • Frequently wash hands or any other area of skin contact, if pet is being treated for a transmissible skin zoonosis, such as ringworm.
  • Become educated about your possible exposure to zoonotics.


Diseases you cannot catch from your dog:  Distemper, Lyme disease, Cancer, Demodectic Mange, Ear Mites, Kennel Cough, Heartworm Disease

Diseases your dog cannot catch from you:  Lyme Disease, Common Cold, Chicken Pox, Measles, Influenza


July-August 2009

  5 Mouser Myths Debunked

You know your cat doesn't have nine lives and black cats aren't witches in disguise, but these tall tales have led to incorrect notions about cats.  Here are often-heard health yarns, and how to unravel them.

1) Cats are aloof, unsocial creatures.
Contrary to popular belief, cats are social creatures and need interaction.  Dogs wag their tails and bark in delight when you come home.  Cats show affection by nuzzling your leg.  Even though they're not boisterous, they still want--and need--attention.  Some cats do shun human affection, but these introverts don't represent the whole feline species.  In fact, lack of interaction can be an early sign of illness.

2) Indoor cats don't need preventive medicine.
A cat doesn't have to go outside to get sick, especially if it lives with other pets that do head out.  When these outdoor pets come back inside, they can bring along--and pass on--all sorts of infections, from respiratory viruses to internal parasites.  Fleas and mosquitos can easily make their way into the house, then jump onto or bite an indoor cat.

3)Cats are independent and don't need care.
Putting out extra food might satisfy their basic needs for a weekend alone, but if a cat gets sick--say from ingesting a foreign object or suffering a urinary tract blockage--while home by itself, it can be severely ill (or worse) by Sunday night when its owner returns.
 


4)Cats elliminate outside the litter box to be spiteful.
Instead, missing the box often indicates an underlying medical condition, such as urinary tract disease or infection, kidney disease, or diabetes mellitus.  It can also be a sign of arthritis, which makes getting into the litter box difficult.  Or it can be a sign of litter box avoidance resulting from a variety of factors or a sign of territorial marking.  When you notice your cat eliminating in the wrong place, contact your veterinarian immediately.

5)Cats don't get heartworms.
Heartworms affect dogs and cats differently, but they do indeed affect cats.  Heartworm disease has been reported in all 50 states.  Unlike dogs, cats are troubled by heartworm larvae (juvenile heartworms) rather than mature adult heartworms.  When the larvae arrive and when they die in cats' lungs, they cause lesions that may lead to airway and arterial disease referred to as heartworm-associated respiratory disease (HARD).  Cats that exhibit asthma-like symptoms may in fact be suffering from HARD.  The disease can cause severe illness and death and approved treatments aren't available, but it's completely preventable with the proper use of preventive medication.

-courtesy dvm360.com


May-June 2009

Proper Removal of a Tick

The best way to remove a tick is with fine-pointed tweezers. Grab as closely to the skin as possible and pull straight back, using steady but gentle force. In addition:

  • Do not use your fingers to remove the tick.
  • Do not twist the tick, which can cause breakage, leaving part of its body in the skin.
  • Do not crush, prick, or burn the tick, which may cause it to salivate or regurgitate infected fluids.
  • Do not try to smother the tick with products such as petroleum jelly or mineral oil. Ticks can store enough oxygen to complete feeding.

Proper Disposal of a Tick

 Place the tick in a sealed container or small plastic bag and deposit in the trash. James Herrington, MPH, Public Health Education Specialist at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, says that the humidity ticks need to survive is lacking inside a plastic bag. Do not flush ticks down the toilet because they can easily survive in the water.

For removing ticks off your pet, it is a good idea to put on a pair of latex gloves.  In doing so will reduce the chance of contracting any tick borne disease that is spread through fluids of the tick.  When removing ticks with tweezers, remember to get as close as possible to your pet's skin without actually pinching their skin.  Pull slowly away from your pet because pulling too quickly may break the tick away and the head of it may still be in the skin and could eventually get infected.  Follow these easy guidelines of removing ticks and you should be alright.

Two new products we have available:
C.E.T. Aquadent - It is what it's called; apply a certain amount of this liquid to your dog or cat's water daily and it helps to reduce bacteria buildup in their mouth, which in turn reduces that horrible odor they can produce.
Furminator - It does just the same as it is named as well; it is a modern day brush for your dog or cat, or horse even.  It has teeth just like any brush but the difference is inbetween.  The brush could almost be considered a hair thinner; it removes all the undercoat, dead, dried and loose hair.  Brush with this properly and you can feel it tug at all the hair that is coming out.  When you come in, be sure to view the looping video we have on display and see how it works in person, just ask!



April 2009
     Heartworms:  Agonizing to Treat.  Easy to Prevent.
       Imagine how many times you get bitten by mosquitos in one month.  We receive oddly shaped welts and are very itchy, even if bitten 10 times.  All it takes for your dog to get heartworms is just one bite of a mosquito that is carrying the disease.  Mosquitos that are carrying the disease do not look any different than those that are not.  So, just to be safe, any mosquito is a bad mosquito.  We all know that mosquitos can sneak through the crack of our door or window, so we know even our inside dogs are not safe from heartworms.
       It all starts when a mosquito carrying microscopic heartworm larvae takes a bite, leaving the tiny heartworm larvae behind to infect the dog.  The larvae enter the dog through the bite wound and find their way to its veins.  Over the next several months, actual heartworms develop invisibly within the dog.  Eventually they migrate to the arteries of the lungs (where they can grow up to a foot in length) and cause severe lung inflammation and heart failure.  The presence of heartworms in the vital blood vessels of the lungs can cause problems ranging from coughing, difficulty breathing, energy loss, dizziness, and even death.  *It is very important, especially during summer time, to pay extra close attention to your dog(s).  To the average person these symptoms would seem like they were just overheated, but could very likely be an infection of heartworms.*  The maturing of heartworms is all happening invisibly right in front of you.  Usually no outward signs whatsoever, unless of course they have advanced to the heart or lungs.  
       Veterinarians are equipped with a very simple blood test that will actually acknowledge if your dog has heartworms.  The heartworm test that most veterinarians carry will also test for Lyme disease and Ehrlichia which are two tick-borne diseases that your dog can contract from ticks.   
       The importance of getting your dog heartworm tested is to keep your dog healthy and reduce the number of other dogs that may get infected.  When a dog has heartworms, a mosquito bites that dog and picks up microfilaria (the baby heartworms).  Then in the mosquito the microfilaria turn into larvae which infect the next dog the mosquito bites, starting the whole cycle over again.  
       The scary thing is that a mosquito can go anywhere and everywhere.  In 2001, this is what the number of infected dogs looked like:

 




 Eight years later and imagine how the numbers have doubled, even possibly tripled!




  
       Getting and keeping your dog on a heartworm preventative once a month life long will save your dog's life and help reduce the horrifying numbers across the U.S.  This is one disease we know we can prevent by simply giving a tablet once a month.  *One thing to remember about heartworms is if you give your dog a heartworm preventive, and if they do have heartworms but you don't know yet, this could very well kill them.*  Heartworm preventives range from as little as $5 - $7 a month.  Forgetting just one heartworm pill will leave your dog susceptible to contracting the heartworm disease.  
       Yes, there are ways to treat heartworms once contracted.  Heartworms can be in many different stages within your dog once contracted, so the doctor would determine at the time of diagnosis how best to treat that patient.  Treating heartworms is an expensive process and is not without the possibility of complications.  Preventing the disease is easier than treating the disease.  Heartworm testing and administering heartworm prevention is one of the most important things you will ever do for your beloved pet.
       Visit our "Links" section and click on Heartworm Society .  There is a website that provides much more information and frequent updates if there are ever any questions.

March 2009

     We’ve had quite a few animals recently with food allergies.  One of the ways we can help a pet with food allergies is by limiting what types of food they consume.  Trying to find a food fit for your pet can be quite difficult, especially with all the different labels, descriptions and ingredients.

     Last year at the 2008 North Carolina Veterinary Conference one of the courses we attended was “Choosing Diets-Deciphering the Labels.”  With the knowledge gained from that course, I figured what better way than to help spread the knowledge with struggling clients and friends.  It is very hard just to find a good quality food, especially not knowing how tricky the labels can be.  I have compiled some of what Korinn Saker (MS, DVM, PhD, Diplomat American College of Veterinary Nutrition) spoke about and some general knowledge of food nutrition and labels..

 

     “The purpose of the Label is to provide information relative to the safety, efficacy, palatability and cost of the product.  Some of this information is directly apparent; some of the information only becomes apparent after closer evaluation of and interpretation of the printed information.  Labeling guidelines are published by the American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) which are meant to provide a degree of uniformity to pet food labels, hopefully making interpretations more universal.”

 

Based on AAFCO regulation, any food label should include the following:

  • Brand or product name
  • Purpose statement for which pet the food is intended for, i.e. cat, dog, bird, etc.
  • Quantity Statement
  • Guaranteed Analysis
  • Ingredient Statement
  • Statement of nutritional adequacy
  • Feeding directions
  • Name and address of manufacturer or distributor

 Additional points of interest regarding label format and labeling include:

  • A graphic representation on a pet food label can not misrepresent the contents of the package
  • The word “proven” is NOT permitted on a food label unless the claim is substantiated scientifically or by other empirical data.
  • Statements making false or misleading comparisons between that product and another are not allowed
  • Statements such as “new”, “improved”, or similar designation must be substantiated and limited to six months production

 Brand and Product Names

     Terminology needs to be accurate and guidelines specify which types of words reflect the actual product ingredient content. For example:

  • Words such as “All” or “100%” can only be used in the product name if the product contains only one ingredient (not including water, decharacterizing agents, or trace amounts of preservatives and condiments).
  • An ingredient or combination of ingredients can form a part of the product name when:  the ingredients constitute a specific % of the total weight of the product; the names of the ingredients of the product name are listed in order of respective predominance by weight in the product, etc.
  • If a descriptor such as “with” or similar designation appears in product name, the named ingredient must constitute at least 3% of the product weight (excluding water).
  • A flavor designator can be included as part of product name if:  it conforms to the name of the ingredients as listed in the ingredient statement; type size is equal; flavor designation can be substantiated.

      The ingredients in a product are listed in descending order by their predominance by weight in non-quantitative terms.

 

A few examples of commonly defined ingredients include:

  • Meat:  is the clean flesh derived from slaughtered mammals and is limited to that part of the striate muscle which is skeletal or that which is found in the tongue, diaphragm, heart, esophagus with or without accompanying and overlying fat and the portions of the skin, sinew, nerve, and blood vessels which normally accompany the flesh.
  • Meat by-products:  Is the non-rendered, clean parts other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals.  It includes, but not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs/intestines freed of contents.  Does NOT include hair, horns, teeth, hoofs.
  • Meat meal:  is the rendered product from mammal tissues, exclusive of any added blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach, and rumen contents.  It shall not contain added extraneous materials not provided for by its definition.  The calcium level should not exceed the actual level of the phosphorus by > 2.2 times.  It shall not contain > 12% pepsin indigestible residue and not >9% of the crude protein in the product shall be pepsin indigestible.

       

Although this is a large amount of information regarding Food Labels, there is so much more.  Being very careful to fully read and understand the food label of the food you are about to purchase can save you time and money.  For example:  If we find that your pet is allergic to chicken and you find a lamb and rice meal, look again and I bet you will find chicken fat or chicken oil hidden in the list of ingredients.  Though it may be very low on the list (meaning there isn’t very much) this could mean weeks of itching and torture for the both of you.  Put yourself in your pet’s paws, imagine you are allergic to shrimp and I bet just one bite would send you to the hospital.  Not to say one bite of food that your pet is allergic to will send them to the emergency clinic, but they may need some sort of veterinary care.

 

February 2009
   Did you know that periodontal disease is the most common disease in both cats and dogs? 86% of adult pets have some form of periodontal disease. If this goes untreated, the bacteria in the oral cavity can spread into the bloodstream and have harmful effects on the heart, lungs, liver and kidneys. By providing good dental care we can help increase your pet's longevity.
  There are many different ways to help provide good dental care. Some of them that we provide are:


  • C.E.T. Home Dental Care Oral Hygiene Rinse for Dogs and Cats- Rinse daily following each meal or as directed by your veterinarian.
  • C.E.T. Home Dental Care Enzymatic Toothpaste- Use a soft-bristled toothbrush (one that we carry).  Apply daily or as directed by your veterinarian.  We carry a poultry flavored toothpaste that most dogs and cats enjoy. 
  • OraVet Plaque Prevention Gel- Apply once a week or as directed.  Dry the gums as much as possible and apply to your pets teeth and gums at the gumline. There is the option for us to apply this product directly after the Dental Cleaning which will last for two weeks!  (However, the take-home product lasts about a week)
  • C.E.T. Chews for dogs and C.E.T. Treats for cats.  They are treated with a special enzyme that breaks down potential tartar build-up on your pets teeth when they bite into them.
One thing people seem to misunderstand is that Dental Disease is unavoidable, but it can be avoided!
     
     Some Signs of Dental Problems:
  • Bad Breath -  one of the first signs of dental disease
  • A yellowish-brown crust of plaque on the teeth near the gum line
  • Red and swollen gums
  • Pain or bleeding when your pet eats or when the mouth or gums are touched
  • Decreased appetite or difficulty eating
  • Loose or missing teeth

     If your pet has bad breath or reddened gums, it could be from gingivitis. Gingivitis occurs when soft plaque hardens into rough, irritating tartar. Tartar build-up on your pet's teeth can cause damage to the teeth and gums.
     If left untreated, gingivitis can lead to an infection called periodontal disease. This disease can cause the loss of teeth. You can prevent serious dental problems from happening by making sure your pet receives dental exams at the time of each vaccination, again at six months of age, and then annually.
 

Once the tartar has reached this level, there is only one thing we can do to help your pet.  A Dental Cleaning is a simple procedure that does require your pet to be sedated under anesthesia.  It is very important to have your pets teeth cleaned in order to remove any and all tartar from the teeth which could be causing swollen, red and inflammed, or even bleeding gums.  
     The First part of the Dental Cleaning process is actually removing the tartar using a hand scaler.  Next, a periodontal probe checks for any pockets under the gumline where periodontal disease and bad breath starts.  A mechanical scaler is used to clean above the gumline while a curette cleans and smoothes the teeth under the gumline in the crevice.  Then, your pets teeth are polished creating a smooth surface.  Finally, we apply a flouride treatment to strengthen your pets teeth, to desensitize exposed roots, and to decrease infection.  We send your pet home with a bag of C.E.T. treats. 
They are treated with a special enzyme so when your pet bites into them, they help to prevent tartar buildup.
   The Dental Cleaning is a simple out-patient procedure. Your pet comes in one day, we perform bloodwork to make sure all is well, anesthesize them, perform the dental, allow them to wake up and send them home to you! 



January 2009

          From the desk of Dr. Barrow:
     How many of you have ever noticed your dog or cat scratching at its ears, shaking its head or licking its feet?  Chances are there are a lot of you who have noticed this and thought itchy ears and skin and chronically infected ears were just normal for your pet.
     On almost a daily basis, I examine cats and dosg whose ear canals are red and inflamed or infected and stay this way most of the time.  It isn't normal for ear canals to be red or have a discharge so there must be an underlying cause.  If the underlying cause can be found and treated then the ears have the opportunity to calm down and the animals are not constantly licking their feet.
     One of the most common causes of chronic otitis externa (ear infections or inflammation) in dogs and cats less than 2 years old is food allergy.  Food allergies most commonly result in inflammed ears and sometimes itchy feet and itchy faces.  The problem is usually present year-round unlike environmental allergies which can be seasonal.  When I examine a patient that has been treated for ear infections 2 or more times, food allergies as an underlying cause is one of the first things that comes to mind.
     Pets are most commonly allergic to the proteins in the diet like chicken, beef, and pork or the carbohydrate, like corn, wheat or oats.  Common comments I hear from owners is that they have always fed a particular food or that they have fed several diets over the years.  Neither of these factors rules out food allergy for that particular pet.
     Diagnosing a food allergy involves a food trial using a novel protein and novel carbohydrate.  This food is fed exclusively for 8 weeks.  No other food or treats can be given and nonflavored heartworm pills must be used during the trial.  At the end of the food trial, the patient is examined (especially the ears) and if improvement is noted, I diagnose a food allergy.  At that point we must select a diet we think the dog or cat can tolerate and make a permanent diet change.  Sometimes we go through a period of trial and error until the right food is selected.
     Diagnosing a food allergy and feeding the appropriate diet can lead to a marked improvement in the quality of life for the pet.  Ear infections are a thing of the past.  If your pet has itchy ears or spends a lot of time licking its feet or rubbing its face, he or she may have a food allergy.  Call us for an appointment where we will start with taking a history and performing a thorough physical exam.  It may just lead to a new lease on life for your pet!